
Girls with log raft Napa Hai 1995. [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

Overlooking a village near Zhongdian 1995. [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]
Initially it was difficult to reach the lake. The ground was boggy with numerous watercourses bisecting the surface while the bike was proving exceptionally heavy every time I had to handle it over physical obstacles. Then I spotted a route through a compact village of whitewashed buildings towards the shoreline. Reaching the water’s edge I must have sat there for an hour gazing across a stunningly serene landscape where it was easy to imagine that every photo taken would resemble a postcard. Clean air providing excellent visibility enhanced the scene.
Yaks, sheep, horses, cattle and black pigs roamed freely on the springy meadows, some actually standing in the lake’s shallow waters. Heavily garbed women sitting patiently nearby had no hesitation in throwing a stone at any of their animals tending to wander off!

Chorten at Songzanlin Monastery 1995. [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]
Napa Hai was proving to be one of my most memorable moments in China up to that time. There was then no commercialization, just the opportunity of being so close to nature while watching in fascination timeless agricultural activities. Indeed I was the only intrusion onto this scene. Apart from curious children I was mostly undisturbed.

Lamas in dormitory at Songzanlin Monastery 1995. [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]
Due to seasonal water fluctuations few permanent structures rose near the shores but villages, seemingly of log cabins, could be seen clinging to lower slopes of surrounding hills, the calm waters reflecting the scene. Indeed the sheer beauty was also enhanced by views of distant snow mountains. It was a Shangri-La moment where simply sitting there induced a feeling of tranquility, of Shangri-La within my heart. I could honestly say that given an opportunity to escape from the modern world I inevitably had to return to, I would easily have stayed there to be a photographer, an artist or even just a dreamer.

Overlooking a village near Zhongdian 1995. [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]
The lake and surrounding area, packed with biodiversity, today forms a national nature reserve. Early summer warmth promotes snow melt on surrounding hills. The water flowing down into Napa Hai spreads over seasonal meadows attracting migratory birds, including black-necked cranes. Himalayan vultures have also been sighted. Commencing in autumn, the long dry season leads to water shrinkage and meadows reappearing.